At the moment, I think that what UTO is most appreciated around the world is our semi-custom-made manufacturing, in which we ``make it in your desired color and size.''
When it comes to "ready-made clothes" made from "woven" fabrics, there are few people who do not have them altered at all, and most people do some kind of alteration, such as "tightening the sleeve length" or "extending the waist". I think there are.
For example, in the case of ``cloth clothes.''
I think you can adjust the length of the sleeves by 1.2 cm, but in the case of a sweater, I think it can be covered by its characteristic stretch and contraction.
However, as you might expect, when a sweater becomes 4.5cm long, it makes a huge difference in both comfort and appearance. Sometimes I see people saying, ``I love this sweater,'' but wearing it with the sleeves folded back.
We want people who have given up because they can't have it altered because it's a knit to be able to wear a sweater that fits them perfectly, so we have our own factory and have been researching cashmere materials all year round, and have been searching for many years. After many years, "custom made cashmere knits" was finally realized.
The only way to fit a sweater that cannot be altered perfectly is to make it one by one.
Back in 2002, we started taking semi-custom orders for cashmere, saying, ``We'll make it to the exact dimensions in the color you want.''
To lengthen the length of a straight garment from the bust to the hem, you just need to add the number of stitches, but UTO's inner type is gently tapered to the waist.
It widens a little from the waistline to the hem.
For this reason, even if you just increase the length, the slope from the waist to the hem will be different, so you will have to change the number of stitches.
Even the simplest thing, ``adjusting the length,'' involves a lot of work, so when changing the bust width, it also affects the shoulder width, sleeve width, armholes, and sleeve length, so I have to struggle with the instructions every time.
In the case of mass production, once a prototype is completed, hundreds of pieces are produced in production.
On the other hand, with UTO, we have to create a ``single finished product'' that is similar to the actual mass production every time, and each piece is a serious challenge.
In addition to size, we also make things like ``lengthening the collar of the turtle'' and ``lengthening the ribs on the hem and sleeves.''
We also accept requests to create your own original designs by changing the design by adding color to some areas.
At UTO, the best compliment we can receive is when a customer wears a sweater and says, ``It looks natural and doesn't look out of place.''
In the case of ``larger sizes,'' the amount of yarn used increases, so we charge a fee for the yarn, but we can do this time-consuming ``size adjustment'' for an additional fee of around 1,000 to 2,000 yen in a short period of time in a form similar to a service. I'm making it.
I think it would probably cost the same amount of money and time to ``alter clothes''.
With the desire to ``want more customers to wear comfortable cashmere knits'', UTO uses ``the same cashmere yarn for 20 years'' and continues to research this yarn and manufacturing throughout the year, so we use our years of experience and We use our technology to provide such services.
When we first started this "custom order" business, we received orders from customers at an order event at our store around April, but other manufacturers we worked with told us, "I can't believe they would do that with knitwear." We both laughed when we heard that they were so worried until the product was delivered at the beginning of autumn in August.
]]>Some people have the misconception that "cheap cashmere will pill, and expensive cashmere will not." However, this does not mean that some cashmere can pill and others cannot.
Basically, all wool materials, not just cashmere, pill.
Cashmere knits are something you want to take good care of, so if you learn about the mechanism by which pilling occurs and wear it based on that knowledge, you will be able to wear it more comfortably without pilling.
There are two main reasons why hairballs form.
They are " friction " and " entanglement ".
"Pilling" is a state in which the fibers in the parts that are not twisted into the yarn (pile feet) are entangled with each other, forming a ball as the name suggests.
The fibers that come out from the twisting of this thread are what gives cashmere its fluffy and soft feel.
"Foreign objects" and "static electricity"
The source of pill formation is called the "pill nucleus," and most of the triggers are foreign objects or static electricity.
Foreign objects are not only those that are visible to the naked eye, but also objects such as broken fabrics such as jackets, and particles floating in the air that can cause "pill nuclei" to form. This will cause it.
Also, the static electricity that occurs in the winter causes the fibers to stick together, which can cause them to become tangled.
"humidity" and "heat"
This "humidity" and "heat" are the main points that cause pilling.
In the pilling test, the speed at which the fibers raised by rubbing become entangled is that when rubbing normally at room temperature, the pill grows like a gradual addition, but when moisture or water is applied, the pill grows rapidly like a multiplication. When it grows and heat, especially heat above body temperature, is added to it, the pilling speed becomes even faster.
Why does water and humidity have such an impact?
This is because the cuticles of each wool fiber open when exposed to water or high humidity, making them more likely to get tangled.
Pilling test "Pilling test"
There is a third-party hair product inspection association called JWIF (JWIF), commonly referred to as hair inspection in the industry.
Here, we conduct a test called the "Pilling Test" to measure the ease with which pilling occurs.We put multiple knitted fabrics in a cork-lined box and rub them together for a certain period of time ( 5 hours) to see how much they pill. The degree of pill formation is determined from grade 1 to grade 5 . ( The larger the number, the less likely pilling will occur )
In the case of UTO 's cashmere products, they are grade 3 to 4 in the pilling test ( ICI ), and cashmere is generally grade 2, so this is not a problem at all as a product.
Ease of pilling of each animal hair fiber
Natural wool's fibers are curly and tend to roll up easily.
Because of this crimp, you can create a fluffy yarn that is resistant to tension without having to twist it so tightly when spinning.
By curling up and trapping air to increase heat retention, it plays an important role in protecting you from the outside air.
This crimp also has its own characteristics depending on each animal, and some types are more prone to pilling and others are less likely to do so.
The order in which common animal hair fibers tend to pill (shrinkage) is as follows:
★Angora > Rum > Cashmere > Camel > Mohair > Alpaca
Among animal hairs, angora is the most prone to pilling, alpaca is relatively less prone to pilling, and cashmere is somewhere in between.
Also, the fibers of alpaca, which are less likely to pill, tend to be straight and do not have many crimps, so they tend to fall out before pilling.
However, this is just a characteristic of the fiber, and it varies considerably depending on how the product is made and how it is worn.
1. Reduce friction
Wearing a sweater can be said to cause friction.
Therefore, although it is not possible to eliminate friction, it is possible to reduce the degree of friction.
For example, it is recommended to avoid the following cases:
When you wear it as a jacket, the friction is mainly from your own arms, but there have been cases where the back has rubbed against the wool seats of cars and other cars, causing pilling.
What I don't really notice is the jacket when layered over a sweater.
In particular, unlined tweed jackets have strong friction and are prone to pilling.
In addition, when a bag made of canvas products rubs against it, pilling may occur only in the area that the bag touched.
2. Measures against foreign objects and static electricity
Pills can be caused by fibers getting tangled on their own, or by foreign objects or static electricity causing fibers to stick together and become tangled.
When we say foreign matter, it is more like minute pieces of fiber than visible dirt. Frequent brushing is the best way to get rid of these hairballs.
Just a little brushing before putting it on and putting it away makes a big difference.
I will untie the pill nucleus that is about to get tangled.
3. Measures against stuffiness (humidity/temperature)
You also need to be careful about how often you wear them and when doing strenuous exercise.
Especially men, some people wear the same clothes for several days in a row, so be careful.
For example, if you drive a car wearing a sweater inside a jacket, the part of your body that was held down by the seatbelt will become pilled within 4 to 5 days.
There have been cases where people have worn it inside a windbreaker and played golf all day and ended up with pilling in their armpits.
These are typical examples of continuous wear, stuffiness, pressure and chafing.
Be careful not to get stuffy.
UTO doesn't want you to wear a sweater every day, even if you like it.
・After wearing it for one day, let it rest for about two days to allow time for the moisture accumulated in the fur to release. ・Brush and tame any tangled fur.
The source of pilling is tangles of hair fibers, so the only thing you can do is untangle or remove them.
Recommended method for removing hairballs
If a pill forms, it is best to cut it off with scissors without pulling it.
However, if you are not careful, you may end up cutting the body of the sweater (I have also tried and made the mistake of cutting this).
These days, ``easy pill removers'' that are similar to shaving have been released.
If you carefully stroke the surface with a pill remover, it will come off fairly cleanly, so it is safe and recommended.
Will my sweater become thinner if I remove the pill?
Some people are worried that removing the pilling will make the sweater thinner, but as long as you remove the pilling from the surface, there is no problem.
brushing
The source of pilling is tangles of hair fibers, so the only thing you can do is untangle or remove them.
To remove tangles, comb or brush with a ``soft-bristled brush'' (brushes specifically made for cashmere are also available commercially).
When I first heard this, I was surprised and thought, "Wow! That's possible," but now I'm more like, "Wow!"
But it's an amazing technique.
"Preshrunk yarn" with scientific processing
This is a microscopic world seen through a microscope, and as I mentioned earlier, the cuticles of wool fibers open and become easily tangled in wet or humid conditions. It involves removing it or wrapping the cuticle in a membrane.
In the industry, it is called ``preshrunk yarn,'' but it seems like many of the sweaters that have been distributed in large quantities in recent years are made of preshrunk yarn.
Normally, the wool fibers breathe, making it dry when it's humid and moist and comfortable when it's dry, but the unique qualities of wool are lost.
On the other hand, it doesn't shrink or pill even if you wash it a little hard.
There is no doubt that the material is 100% wool/100% cashmere, but personally, I personally feel that a sweater with this kind of processing feels soft, but somehow lacks elasticity.
Smooth wool doesn't have a fluffy feel and is unreliable, like castrated wool, so I have no plans to use it as a UTO.
However, I think that shrink-proof yarn is useful when supplying woolen sweaters that can be easily washed by many people.
Are hairballs more likely to form in the beginning?
This is a story from my own experience as I love cashmere and wear cashmere sweaters most of the winter.
From my experience of wearing cashmere for over 30 years, I have found that cashmere pilling is most likely to occur when you first purchase it, and if you use a pill remover to remove it each time it occurs, it will gradually become less noticeable. There are many.
There are some that don't pill at all, and some that are easy to pill.
If you remove items that tend to pill as often as possible during the first year, they will gradually become less pillable in the second and third years.
It's a shame that we can't just casually say, ``You'll no longer be able to do it eventually,'' as there hasn't been any detailed scientific research and this is just a rule of thumb.
]]>We will explain in detail the basics of cashmere, such as ``What kind of animal hair is cashmere?'' ``Cashmere is expensive, but why?''
Some people think that cashmere is a type of sheep, but cashmere is not a sheep at all, but a goat called the cashmere goat .
The main sources of raw cashmere are Asian countries such as China, Mongolia, Iran, Afghanistan, and Russia . Even in these countries, they live in harsh climate conditions, with extremely cold winters of -30 degrees Celsius or less, and extremely hot summers of over 30 degrees Celsius .
It is said that in the past, people in Europe brought cashmere goats back home to raise them in large numbers. However, in Europe, where the climate is much milder than in the country of origin, it seems that almost no fine, soft downy hair grows.
That light and soft downy wool of cashmere was a special gift given to cashmere by God to protect us from the harsh climate.
The charm of cashmere is its warmth, fluffy softness, and lightness.
Why is cashmere so light, fluffy, soft, and warm?
To stay warm, we need to ``prevent the cold air outside from taking away our heat'' and ``keep our body heat from escaping.'' The clothes we wear play this role. Clothes naturally need to block heat from the outside air and protect the skin from damage, but they also need to have a variety of functions, such as being easy to move in, being lightweight, and allowing a moderate amount of heat exchange. The item with the highest overall rating will be considered ``comfortable''.
The role of keeping clothes warm is actually "air."
When air moves (like the wind), it causes the heat from your skin to evaporate, making you feel cold, but stationary air has a high insulation effect. This is called low thermal conductivity.
Think of "double glazing". Double-glazed windows have air between the glass windows. What if the double-glazed windows were made of glass of the same thickness? Although they are durable, they do not provide as much insulation as double-glazed windows because they allow the heat and cold from outside to pass through.
The best insulation for double glazed windows is air. The biggest challenge in making clothes feel warm is how to store air, which has low thermal conductivity.
Most clothing is made by weaving or knitting yarn.
The threads are made from a variety of materials, including cotton and hemp from plants, animal hair (wool), insect cocoons (silk), and synthetic and chemical fibers.
Each type has its own characteristics and is used depending on its purpose, but the threads are made by bundling and twisting raw materials such as cotton or wool.
If the thread is the same thickness , the thinner the cotton or wool fibers are, the more air it can hold .
Wool (cashmere) products are products made from yarn made from animal hair.
Humans have made clothing by spinning threads using the hair of various animals such as sheep, angora, camel, alpaca, and mohair, but cashmere hair is generally the best among the animal hairs available in the world. It's thin .
kinds | Fiber thinness (micron) |
vicuna | Approximately 10-14 |
cashmere | Approximately 14-18 |
silk | Approximately 19 to 50 |
mohair | Approximately 30-50 |
common wool | Approximately 18-50 |
human hair | Approximately 50-70 |
Being thin naturally means being light, soft, and delicate .
Vicuna and Chiru are wool animals that have finer hair than cashmere. Vicunas live wild in the highlands of the Andes and are generally not sold commercially except through special channels, which is why cashmere can be said to be the thinnest.
The thickness of cashmere fibers is approximately 13.5 microns (1 micron is 1/1000 mm) to 16.5 microns. Mohair is about 34 to 40 microns, and most wool is around 20 microns, so you can see how thin cashmere is.
These thin, soft fibers hold a lot of air, wrapping us in warmth.
Cashmere goat hair is divided into two types .
One is the long, stiff bristles that cover the surface called " hair ." Another thing is the " downy hair " that lies on the inside of coarse hair.
This downy hair is very fine and elastic, and is used for sweaters and clothing.
The only way to harvest downy hair is to comb it out with a rake-like comb, which takes a lot of time and effort.
Collect the combed hair and remove sand, dirt, and hard hair.
After that, only the fine downy hair is sorted out, and in the end, only around 100 grams can be harvested from each cow. It is said that it takes the downy hair of two to three animals to make one sweater.
Cashmere is extremely valuable, and collecting it is not cut with clippers, but carefully combed, which is very time-consuming.
Cashmere can range from pin to fine depending on the grade of the hair, and is divided into grades based on color, length, thickness, etc. Of course, there is a considerable difference in price, with high-quality cashmere being about 10 times more expensive than wool.
The highest grades are purchased in Europe, America, and Japan. Particularly well-known brands buy these grades of raw wool, and of course UTO's cashmere is among them.
(UTO's cashmere is " Alasen ")
At the beginning of the 2008 fall season, there was an error in the display of the cashmere blend, which caused an uproar in newspapers and television.
Cashmere is a more expensive raw material than ordinary wool, so even a slight difference in the blending ratio can have a big impact on the cost, so there is no shortage of people trying to make a profit by cheating on the blending ratio.
It seems that there are some scams where the sample is real but when you receive the product it turns out to be a fake, so you should never skimp on checking.
Before a cashmere product is made, it has to go through many people and companies. Raw cashmere wool cannot be obtained in Japan, so spinning companies inspect the blend ratio of raw wool each time they import it, either in-house or at a public inspection agency.
Of course, those who are exporting also conduct inspections to prevent foreign objects from entering the product before exporting. If it is possible to mix different materials, the only opportunity is when they are in the ``cotton'' state. It is important to inspect the raw hair.
Even with such strict inspections, sometimes the rope binding the raw wool breaks and the fibers from that rope get mixed in, resulting in a test result of 99.9%, but it is possible that more than 1% of foreign matter has been mixed in unintentionally. That's impossible.
In order to prepare for unforeseen circumstances, by law, cashmere that is 97% wool and up to 3% wool is allowed to be labeled as 100% cashmere, but if you go through the proper route, it is highly unlikely that 3% foreign matter will be mixed in.
The Hair Products Inspection Association, known as ``Keken,'' is an organization that prevents mislabeling of raw materials and products imported from overseas so that consumers receive products that match the labeling.
It costs a lot of money to have this test done, but for your own protection, it is important to have it properly tested and certified at UTO.
UTO Cashmere Knits
The maintenance procedure and the point are .
(1) Beautiful"Water"In theNeutral detergents(Fashionable clothes washing) washing machineHand-washing modeIt is recommended!
Clean.NetFold it up and put it in.
Hand-washing modePlenty of water and short-term washingSetting (water temperature is at room temperature)
In order to reduce friction, the amount of water is large, and the number of sheets is small (1-2 sheets)
Add a neutral detergent (for fashionable washing) as appropriate (don't forget to use a softener)
Dehydration (3-5 minutes)
As much as possiblea flat place(The hanging is extended) and placed on,Natural drying in the shade (flat drying)
(★Hand washing is fine, but it is not recommended to squeeze or towel dry because the fiber is partially pressed, and it is easy to be damaged even though it takes time and effort. )
I often hear people say, "If you wear it two or three times, you'll have to send it to the cleaner's, so it's going to cost you money."
Light and fluffy cashmere knits are delicate and expensive, and should not be 、、、
It might be natural to put it out to the cleaning by worry.
But if you take care of yourself, you can refresh at a reasonable price and become more attached than anything!
Please wash it yourself because it is a cashmere knit that is cherished.
(2) AnywayInsect!!And, it folds neatly and it becomes a closet etc.
"I was eaten by an insect and there was a hole in it."
There's no such thing as that.Insect repellentIf you want toOn top of thatPlease put it, fold it neatly and keep it carefully!
Insect repellent is heavier than air, so it has no effect unless you always put it on your clothes.
In addition, if you use more than one, the drug will seep out, causing spots, so please be careful!
In order to be able to wear it comfortably again next season, I value it with feelings at the time of storage!
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UTO is a cashmere knit specialty brand that has been using cashmere material for over 20 years.
Iwate's UTO cashmere craftsmen research cashmere materials year-round, having monthly conversations with spinning companies (cashmere yarn shops).
``When it comes to cashmere materials, there is no other brand that is so particular about it,'' says a spinning company employee.We spend a lot of time working with each other, and are particular about quality and texture above all else.
We are particular about the 6 points below that lead to the quality of cashmere.
Among these six items, we would like to introduce UTO's commitment to raw cashmere wool .
UTO's cashmere knits are made from the world's top-class raw wool .
Raw cashmere wool is graded from grade 1 to grade 9 based on factors such as fiber length and thinness, impurity content, color and degree of crimp, and tension, with grade 1 being the highest. .
The higher the rank, the finer the fineness, the longer the fiber length, and the lower the hair contamination rate.
Only a small number of downy hairs are considered to be grade 1, the highest grade.
The raw materials used by UTO are the rarest and highest grade 1st grade .
The knit is made from first-grade cashmere wool and is supple, soft, and does not irritate the skin.
The raw cashmere wool used by UTO is from "Alashan, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, China."
High-quality raw cashmere wool is produced in harsh climates.
Alashan is a region surrounded by harsh climate. It has deserts and high-altitude rocky mountains, and is dry and windy, with maximum temperatures in summer reaching 40-42°C and minimum temperatures in winter reaching -30°C.
The ``downy wool'' that is produced in harsh climate conditions compared to other regions to survive the cold of midwinter is the highest quality raw wool that is called the world's finest cashmere .
Problems with the description of "100% cashmere" are often discussed, such as the issue of incorrect display of cashmere blend percentage in 2008.
At UTO, in order to give our customers the peace of mind that UTO's cashmere knits are 100% cashmere, we request ``100% cashmere inspection and certification'' from the Hair Product Inspection Association called ``Keken'' .
In addition, we also inspect and obtain certification for whether ingredients that are harmful to the body are used during dyeing, which is an issue not limited to cashmere materials.
(This ingredient is a carcinogenic “specific aromatic amine.” This ingredient is regulated in EU countries and Asia, and it has been regulated in Japan since 2016. I get the impression that relatively many people are concerned about it.)
100% cashmere certificate
Certificate that “specific aromatic amines are not contained in excess of standards”
【Related Sites】
General Incorporated Foundation Keken Testing and Certification Center Animal Hair Appraisal
BOKEN Specific aromatic amine test derived from azo dyes
For UTO, which makes cashmere knits for a living, if a "cashmere knit quality problem" occurs, there is a possibility of completely losing business.
For this reason, we spare no effort in pursuing "quality and transparency" and only purchase from people we trust.
Story about visiting Alashan, China to check traceability >>
Additionally, we receive many orders as gifts, so we are especially careful to ensure a sense of security.
The higher the grade of cashmere , the higher the quality of the cashmere wool itself . However , this does not necessarily mean that the quality of the product is good.
Even if high-quality cashmere is used as the raw material, if the spinning and production techniques are poor, the raw material will be damaged and the texture will be lost. In addition to high-quality raw cashmere wool, the technology used to produce the product must also be sophisticated to make the most of the material.
At UTO , we have long been particular about the selection of spinning companies (threads) and production techniques in order to make the most of cashmere materials.
]]>
One of UTO's original knits, ``Yotsumoku Knit''
Yotsumoto knit is a playful, casual, top-quality cashmere knit made by knitting ``4 different colored cashmere threads''.
It is a secretly popular item that is loved by many customers and has many repeat customers, saying, ``It has such a slimy feel that you won't be able to wear other knits.''
In fact, Yotsumoki knit is an original knit that can only be made by UTO. This is the story of the birth of such an original and beloved knit.
My first encounter with Yotsumochi yarn was when our president, Uto, visited the spinning company we work with.
Sweaters and knitted accessories are usually made by knitting twin yarns (threads made by twisting two single yarns together). For this reason, brands including UTO generally purchase twin yarn from spinning companies. However, when I was touring, I learned that they had "single yarn" before making double yarn.
Hearing this, the company president, Uto, thought , ``Then, if you twist single yarns of different colors, you can make interesting yarns!'' , and the people at the spinning company thought positively, ``That's great!'' The fact that he received the gift was the reason for the birth of Yotsumoku .
According to Spinning Company Day, no one would have thought about ``turning expensive 100% high-quality cashmere yarn into a heather color that is difficult to sell'' in the first place because it was too risky. .
I was thinking, “If you ask me, that’s true.”
However, we thought, ``What would be great if there was a top-quality cashmere knit that was fun!'' We started development with the hope of ``just having fun.''
Then, through trial and error, we were particular about the color and texture that would not compromise the quality of cashmere, and the current four heathered threads and knit items were completed.
Every year at UTO, everyone at the head office has fun twisting four different single yarns and saying, ``This is good! This is a bit strange...'' and we are having fun developing new four-grained yarns. lol
Even if the color is nice when it comes to yarn, the atmosphere is often completely different when it comes to the finished product. Part of the fun is developing threads with that in mind, and of course there are times when I make mistakes...On the other hand, when it comes to knits, the colors turn out surprisingly good.
The reason we can do such risky play (in a good way, of course!) with the highest quality cashmere yarn is because we have our own factory and can manufacture to order.
``Yotsuhatsu Cashmere Knit'' has become a luxurious original product that can only be made by UTO.
It may seem a bit strange to call it a play product, but ``Yotsumoku'' is a yarn filled with a mysterious charm that brings joy to both the creator and the customer.
]]>Have you ever worn a sweater and felt like the cuffs and neckline were stretched out? It's really sad when something like an expensive cashmere sweater stretches out and you can't wear it anymore.
To avoid such sad feelings, please give your child a break from wearing cashmere sweaters .
This time we will be talking about ``How to rest a cashmere sweater''.
If you own a cashmere sweater, please read this.
If you continue to wear a cashmere sweater every day,
・Moisture accumulates due to sweat and body temperature, making it damp and losing its texture.
・The knitting structure, especially in parts that are stretched (rib cuffs, neckline, etc.), changes from the original structure to the stretched structure, resulting in a sweater that is tangled and stretched...
Cashmere sweaters, which originally look luxurious, end up looking more and more disappointing.
You want to keep wearing your cashmere sweater for years to come, so you want it to maintain its elegance.
To prevent that from happening!
After wearing it for one day, let it rest for 2-3 days (wear it once every 3-4 days) and wait for the cashmere to dry and return to its original state.
Also, try steaming or ironing your braids at least once a month to keep them in their original, unstretched state.
The correct way to use a steam iron press
When it comes to cashmere, there is a right way to do it.
If you press an iron against a cashmere sweater, the pile will become flattened and the knit will lose its natural texture. (Wool too)
To raise the hair and make it fluffy,
① Steam with steam
②Reshape it to its original shape with your hands
③ Iron at a height that may or may not touch the sweater.
That's the point.
When it is steamed and softened, the pile rises and the stitches become wider.
If you apply force at this time, the material will move freely and the shape will be easier to adjust.
By the way, stretched cuffs and necklines can also be returned to their original state to some extent using this method.
The point is while it's hot ! It's similar to when you curl your hair by heating it with an iron when perming your hair.
Unlike synthetic fibers, cashmere wool is alive.
That's why one of the important secrets to keeping cashmere knits in good condition for a long time is to let them rest .
In addition, `` maintenance '' is also important in order to keep it in good condition for a long time, so please read this as well, so that you can wear it comfortably for more than 10 years .
]]>I wonder if anyone who reads this as "stockinette" is someone in the industry or someone older than me (born in 1950).
This was around 1980, when I was just starting out as a knitter.
When I was introduced to the president of a company that makes knit products and received a business card that said I am the representative director of XX Modaisho Co., Ltd., I was surprised and wondered, "What is Bakudaisho?"
There are still many knit manufacturing companies called ○○knitwear. For me, when I hear the word stockinette, I think of old-fashioned plain underwear, such as camel shirts.
It is quite an old-fashioned way to call knits "stockinette," but the expressions ``huge'' and ``huge'' are not often used these days.
"Meriyas" means socks in Portuguese and meias in Spanish. It seems that the detailed circumstances surrounding the introduction of knitwear to Japan are not known, but it seems that people at the time who heard the name knitted knits used the spellings ``Noriyasu'' and ``Noriyasu.''
Westerners first appeared in Japan in 1543. When a Portuguese ship washed ashore on Tanegashima Island in Kagoshima, it was the time when guns were introduced.
From then on, until the Tokugawa shogunate closed the country in 1639, Portuguese ships visited Japan frequently, and in 1549, Spanish Jesuit missionary Francisco Xavier and others visited Japan, so this was passed down around that time. Probably. This means that the people who came here were probably Portuguese or Spanish.
It seems that Lois Frois, a Jesuit missionary, presented various European products to Oda Nobunaga, so knitted socks called stockinette may have been among them.
A Westerner depicted in a Nanban folding screen painting depicting the customs of the time. You can see colorful long socks underneath the knicker-pokka-like pants. These are definitely knitted socks called stockinette.
It is said that socks were knitted in Dejima, Nagasaki even during the national isolation period, and they were prized as souvenirs from Nagasaki, and by the end of the Edo period, they had become quite popular, and knitting was popular as a part-time job for samurai.
There is an image that poor samurai's side jobs include re-hanging umbrellas and working as a bookstore, but just imagining a samurai wearing a topknot knitting socks with knitting needles makes me laugh.
A literature from that time says, ``Meriasu is a flexible and flexible thing that goes well with people's arms, no matter how big or small.It should be based on the meaning that it goes well with people's arms, no matter how big or small they are.'' Apparently there is a description.
It makes people read knitted fabric as if it were a quiz about the huge and small dimensions that express the characteristics of knits. Japanese is interesting.
There is a photo of Ryoma Sakamoto, a popular figure at the end of the Edo period, wearing a hakama and shoes, but Ryoma, who loved new things, must have been wearing stockinette socks in those shoes. If you imagine it, as a Ryoma fan, it will be a little fun.
It is my wishful thinking to say that both Nobunaga and Ryoma wore knitted socks, but it seems to be true that Mito Mitsukuni, the vice general of the world, wore socks, and seven pairs of socks were discovered as his belongings. It has been.
As expected of Komon-sama, out of the seven pairs of socks, three were long silk socks.
]]>I heard the story "that it was awkward that it was asked such a question by a visitor" from a shop. Is simple; think that I doubt.
For a thing selling cashmere, I think it to be "全然違 うのになぁ", but the person who is not a specialty and the too much unfamiliar person may not know the delicate difference every day.
Even if it is said, "it is a feeling involved" in, there is impatience not to be able to tell you about in words and the sentence because it is the difference of the delicate touch and sense, but it is no wonder.
It may not be precise, but let's talk, for example, in the example of such a "story of the soba".
The soba ball which a bottom boiled noodles elaborated by an assembly line to raw materials in large quantities beforehand, and did the 100% of foreign countries buckwheat flour which I laid in stock of from the very much straight production center in large quantities.
"Come" "Soba served at a street stall" to blanch it quickly if と, a visitor wear it, and to also hang the soup which I prepared beforehand, and to tick it away, and to pick up a leek, and to be quick, and to start to a visitor. It is cheap and is a fortunate person with convenience in the interval of busy work.
On the other hand, the soba which I saw it to powder, and I examine feelings, soup stock of the soup closely, and hits the fruit of the soba of the production center where an expert expert selected carefully with a stone mill to the water heartily. It is raw not to mention wasabi to attach.
The service that the flower of the season was displayed in the shop, and was careful to a calm atmosphere.
Meanwhile, exquisite taste and kindness make both the stomach and the heart supreme bliss even if the soba to have sets up the price.
Because it is 100% of genuine buckwheat flour, it is different, and there is neither to the soba. Even 100% of same cashmere is different in the example of the story of these 100% of soba.
There is the raw wool of the cashmere to from a pin by thinness thickness, the length of the fiber, the class including the color, too.
As for it, the price is from a pin, too.
Of course this has much know-how what kind of thread you build up from the raw wool.
"匠 of each process do its best day and night and elaborate the splendid product with good raw materials".
Each product has each purpose, and there is each how to make by the purpose.
There is the company which does its best to reduce it more to be given it by more people. The employee makes an effort towards it day and night.
Can you make the cashmere product of that price if oneself is the person in charge of cheap cashmere?
With confidence "Yes!" です.
"Spinning assumes "the raw wool of a shameless, short low class of the fiber" it in a bit big count" and "write a twist harder" and make た thread, and "I knit sweet めに, and stand" and "I sell the product which "I hung 縮絨 and a softening agent harder" directly to large quantities" and do it.
It is a のところが point, but whenever probably time in the store wears this product with the best texture and washes it, I deteriorate and may be not able to bear the wearing of what season.
But because the cashmere has the softness that is distinguished than other wool, too much unfamiliar never knows even the raw materials having low class even if a thread shop edition place is sweet and may really demand such small amount of cashmere again.
However, "the knit story" in comparison with such other place wants to do a more forward fun braggart "to do such a discerning manufacturing in UTO" on the next time because I am slightly sad.
]]>When you look at the cashmere thread we have at our store and say, ``Hmm, is this cashmere thread?'' when you pick it up, you're like, ``Huh? Is this that cashmere thread?'' ! ? ! ”, most people are surprised.
It's hard to imagine that it's made from soft cashmere, but a newly knitted cashmere sweater feels rough to the touch, so it's no wonder.
(Left) Before fulling (Right) After fulling
On the left side (before fulling), the stitches are so loose that the white background is visible, but on the right side, the stitches are tight.
Even if it gets clogged, it doesn't mean it's hard, but it's soft and fluffy.
Once the cashmere sweater is knitted, it undergoes a process called "fluffing."
This crimp is a very important process for materials called woolen wool, such as cashmere.
To put it bluntly, the method is to wash the sweater. In addition to water, this requires knowledge, advanced technology, and skill.
As water passes through the threads during washing, they are spun, and the soft hair twisted inside stands out on the surface.
At that time, some shrinkage will occur . Therefore, when knitting a cashmere sweater, you have to knit a larger one based on the finished dimensions. It is difficult to time this shrinkage.
Therefore, before we start knitting the actual sweater, we test knit a certain size fabric using yarn from the same lot, shrink it, calculate the degree of shrinkage, and decide on the dimensions to knit before moving on to the actual sweater.
↑Calculate the shrinkage and knit it a little larger.
The texture and dimensions change completely depending on how light or strong the fullness is, and the strength of the original yarn twist also makes a difference. Of course, the tightness of the knitted fabric also makes a big difference.
``To make a cashmere sweater with this texture, you need this amount of fulling. To do this, you need to know what percentage of shrinkage will occur if you knit this fabric with this thread, so knit it to this width.
↑We are designing knitting to achieve the desired texture and size while taking shrinkage into account.It is very difficult compared to textile patterns, and is a result of experience.
Strictly speaking, it also depends on the weather at the time of knitting. Rainy days, sunny dry days, cold winter days.
It is especially sensitive to humidity, so I adjust it as I knit. Skilled craftsmen and programmers work while adjusting the indoor temperature and humidity depending on the weather that day.
People who are skilled in a variety of conditions seem to be able to tell whether the knitting machine is "light today" or "heavy" just by moving the knitting machine a few times.
Also, each person has their own preferences regarding the texture and softness of the finished product.
In general, people in the UK prefer cashmere, which is a tightly knitted fabric that becomes softer as you wear it, while people in Japan and Italy seem to prefer something that feels as soft as cashmere to the touch.
Dry the shrunken cashmere. Nowadays, most items are dried quickly using a dryer, but all UTO items are dried naturally .
Natural drying takes time and effort, but I think it is the gentlest method for cashmere.
When it dries, it becomes that fluffy cashmere sweater that is completely different from the rough texture of previous sweaters. It's like a rugged duckling growing into a graceful swan.
In this way, cashmere is a fuzzy material that requires experience, sensitivity, and sense.
It's a rewarding, interesting and fun world.
]]>Color is a very important element in fashion, as it is said that ``color is number one, pattern is number two, and construction is number three.''
In fact, you can't think of fashion without color, and color is especially important for sweaters.
This time we will talk about "dying" to "color" it.
The dyeing craftsmen are working hard day and night to find out how to dye the fabric into the best color.
Raw cashmere wool is ranked into 9 grades based on ``thread thinness, fiber length, and impurity content'', but UTO uses cashmere yarn spun from Toyo Boseki's ``1st grade raw wool''. is.
" 1st grade raw cashmere wool" has extremely high whiteness (whiteness), and threads with high whiteness are characterized by increased color vibrancy and depth when dyed.
Also, there are individual differences among cashmere goats, and there are cashmere colors such as white, gray, and brown. Sometimes these hairs are used as they are, but most of the time they are dyed some kind of color.
①White
②Gray
③Brown
It's fine if the color comes off easily like wool, but cashmere wool is so delicate that if you remove the color and dye it, it will get damaged and lose its texture.
For this reason, for example, colors with low brightness can be dyed from ``brown'' or ``gray'' hair, but only ``white cashmere'' hair can be used for lighter colors such as white, saxophone, and pink.
By the way, UTO has many bright clear colors, so "white cashmere" is often used.
When cashmere products began to be sold after the war, the colors were all low-brightness colors such as camel, gray, wine, navy blue, and black.
At that time, these colors were called cashmere colors, and were said to be ``bold and deep colors that are typical of cashmere.'' However, in reality, the threads that could be bought in Japan, where foreign currency was scarce, were brown cashmere or gray cashmere, and expensive white cashmere etc. The reality seems to be that it was bought by the West and never circulated.
Therefore, when I see UTO's bright and diverse colors, I am often surprised, saying, ``Cashmere can come in such beautiful colors.''
There are three types of fiber dyeing: top dyeing, thread dyeing, and product dyeing.
Fibers, not just cashmere, can be dyed in their raw state (top dyeing), in yarn (yarn dyeing), or after being made into products (product dyeing). Each dyeing method is different depending on the purpose.
UTO 's cashmere yarn is dyed using " top dyeing ".
Compared to "thread dyed" and "product dyed" threads, "top dyed" threads have better color retention and deeper hues.
It takes time and effort to complete the color, which increases costs and risks, but we are particular about ``top dyeing'' so that those who order can enjoy the color for a long time.
In addition, "top dyeing" is a dyeing method that is gentle on nature.
UTO is particular about "top dyeing" because it helps to reduce water consumption, reduce wastewater and pollution, which means keeping the natural environment cleaner.
For threads that cannot be re-dyed, the earlier they are dyed, the higher the risk. If you dye the cotton red using top dyeing, the thread will be red, and of course the product will also be red.
Yarn dyeing after one stage is much less risky than top dyeing.
The more you can attract and dye the colors that change rapidly depending on the trends, the less risk there is.If possible, you can make a sweater from unbleached material during the off-season and dye it once you know the color trends in the off-season, so you can grab a great chance. You can do it.
Benetton, an Italian manufacturer, has perfected this dream-like product dyeing process. This was the beginning of Benetton's great breakthrough. I think it was revolutionary.
However, with delicate cashmere, it is impossible to use such a bold method as the texture will be ruined.
The basic method of dyeing is soaking in hot water containing dye. Although it varies depending on the color, a certain amount of temperature and time are required for the dye to penetrate into the fiber.
The degree of color retention is also called "fastness."
Generally, when trying to ``improve fastness'' it becomes necessary to ``increase the dyeing temperature.''
Higher dyeing temperatures have the advantage of ``faster and more uniform dyeing,'' but on the other hand, higher temperatures can damage the cashmere fibers and reduce their texture.
Additionally, this can lead to yarns that are difficult to knit and holes.
Fastness and texture are contradictory, as ``increasing the fastness'' so that ``the color does not fade'' and ``degrading the texture'' are contradictory, but Toyobo Kogyo, which provides yarn to UTO, In order to satisfy both of these requirements, we have developed a special method called " low temperature dyeing ".
UTO 's cashmere yarn is dyed using a "low-temperature dyeing" technology originally developed by Toyo Boseki Kogyo in order to preserve the "soft feel" of cashmere as much as possible and make it a "thread with good color retention." .
"Dyeing slowly at low temperatures to ensure an even color."
This is an advanced dyeing technique based on many years of experience, and is highly acclaimed around the world.
Although careful control of time and color is required, this unique dyeing technique preserves the smooth texture of cashmere fibers and maintains high quality in terms of color retention and texture.
In this way, the quality of UTO is supported by the dyeing masters, but in reality, even with the best technology, there are subtle differences in texture depending on the color.
Of course, cashmere is incomparably softer than other materials even in dark colors such as black, but it is inevitably stiffer than other pastel-colored threads. Even sweaters with the same model number can have different textures depending on the color.
Color craftsmen continue to strive every day to create better colors and better textures, but there are still technical barriers that are difficult to overcome. .
But no matter what, black cashmere is always popular (lol)
Cashmere cotton is made using the highest grade cashmere wool, yarn dyeing, and low-temperature dyeing to bring out the maximum vibrancy and depth while maintaining its texture.
UTO's cashmere yarn is made from 5 to 10 colors of cashmere cotton that are "blended" into a single color.
For example, UTO 's color "Royal Blue" is a blend of five colors of blue.
In addition, in the case of "medium gray", black, white, light beige, light purple, and blue are blended.
Blue is hard to notice, but it's like a secret ingredient that adds depth to the color.
By blending colors, you can add depth to your colors and make even pale pastels look more intense.
Blending also "significantly stabilizes color changes."
Color stability leads to a sense of security when it comes to colors, such as when you want to repeat the same color.
UTO always uses the same cashmere thread and color, so ``color stability'' is a very important element in order for you to feel safe with UTO's cashmere knits.
It seems that I check the comfort of the finished suit through the sleeves to the suit every day.As soon as you pass through the sleeves, you can see the quality of your clothes.And, "today was nothing"was a story that said that I feel satisfied with a good day when I was able to do the best job.
It goes without saying that I am a professional who has the skill and experience to not miss the oversight that the professional people who make things every day did not notice, but I think that the comfort that does not appear in numbers and appearance is very important.
Uto also, when you wear a sweater, there is no discomfort, not too long, not too short, I think that it is the best sweater that looks natural with a moderate margin.
It is natural that the sweater is more comfortable to wear than the clothes of the fabric because it stretches and shrinks.
There are people who say, "I have a good texture of European cashmere"or"British cashmere is the best after all".His favorite was probably made by a manufacturer somewhere in Europe or a manufacturer in the UK.
But if you understand the manufacturing process of cashmere sweaters, you will understand that the texture is different for each brand and product number, not the difference between Europe and Japan.
The difference in texture is just like the difference in design, it is also one of the claims to what kind of texture the brand has with what commitment.When you get used to it, you will understand that there are various texture products in cashmere as you get used to it, such as"how soft and fluffy"or"cashmere is soft but a little firm".
There are many ways to put out the texture, but the big point is two.
It's a lot of knitted fabric and a lot of fulling.
The second is the degree to which knitwear is knitted loosely or tightly knit.
It is said to sweeten the dough by weaving it coarsely.If you knit coarsely, the amount of yarn will go up to a small amount,and if you knit by stuffing the second time, it will be a firm knitted fabric, but the amount of yarn used(metsuke)will also increase.How much time to knit is one of the important claims as a brand.
The second is fulling (reference to the story of fulling).If you knit coarsely and fulling strongly, it becomes fluffy, and if you knit loosely and fulling weakly, it becomes a solid texture.
The texture isn't just soft, it's too hard, it doesn't show the good qualities of cashmere, and the balance between knitted fabric and fulling is important.
]]>
When I wear the sweater of one such as turtlenecks or the yellowtail, can there be the thing that I think that a head will never enter if a gap between this small round neck is a cloth?
It is one of the big difference between knit and cloth to lengthen which does not lengthen, but I do it in the state that I open a part of the neck with the cloth which does not lengthen, and a head enters and close it by a button and a fastener.
On the other hand, even if the knit one is just fogged, the neck lengthens and is shortened if a head enters.
Because it is the movement that I always go for commonly, it is like a matter of course, are you aware of it in there being some devices?
That's right, it is a rib stitch of the neck. I employ the rib stitch which stretches and contracts like rubber most to let you stretch and contract to parts of such neck.
However, the neck does not open even if a rubber place stretches and contracts because a seam fixes the rib stitch if I sew it by a sewing machine commonly.
Therefore it is linking to appear.
I sew the sewing of the cloth not to move cloth which does not stretch and contract and Ikuji that do not stretch and contract by a sewing machine. On the other hand, it is a method of the sewing to do like 編地 which the knit linking seams stretching and contracting 編地 together, and stretches and contracts.
It calls what it seams together by a sewing machine to make linking because normal with the final sewing in the knit world to seam together.
By the way, the sky width to contain a brain smoothly interests you, and 60 centimeters are around aims 30 centimeters in diameter.
The edition ground of the knit is called a high gauge in comparison with the cloth of the textile, and even the stitch of small 14 gauges and 12 gauges of the halftone plate is incomparably relatively coarse and is only a hole when I very extremely express it in the halftone plate of 3 gauges and 1.5 gauge.
I think that it is easy to be understood when I compare the edition ground of the knit to a net and think. I cannot say a sewing machine to seam such 編地 together.
Therefore it is linking to appear. (or because the linking is an English meaning to tell to connect it to link to, it is natural)
A glance glance stabs each needle with neither edition place letting the needle of the linking machine which formed a line in a row dock as for the method of the linking and connects it, but the expert professional very easily picks up eyes, but what I stab with a glance glance not to let you fail in eyes is serious at all.
I have done it several times, but this is very difficult.
Because I put a thorn in a small stitch, the eyes stop, and the shoulder devotes itself, and sweat comes out to a hand and. I do not let I am readily good and strain even if you take time of several times if an amateur does it. I fail and fail in eyes and start it again many times, and a stitch gets dirty when I pull it too much.
Linking is expertise.
A human being picks up a glance glance and stabs you for the moment, and, as for the work of this linking, there is a method. Unfortunately there are many people stopping it at the opportunity when production moves under the present conditions abroad, and a factory closes it, and it goes bankrupt the expert who can do linking ages, and to decrease steadily, and work in itself decreases, and work broke off.
You will make the machine such as the automatic linking machine and pray eagerly, but it seems to be readily difficult.
One piece of sweater is not completed when I do not pass through a process of this linking even if the knitting is possible by machine.
Much experience and perseverance are necessary and cannot easily supplement it like a machine to be an expert. I am sorry at all that the technique that it takes it for many years, and has been cultivated is that a business closing and production move abroad, and technical tradition is cut off.
I think that Japanese precious property is lost. The technique of the linking is a light before the wind.
It is that the aim of UTO builds up the sweater which received orders on the next day or the day after next and hands it to a visitor.
To that end, I think that I must bring up the person who can do it of the linking at oneself.
A linking machine has dial linking and the hand-operated linking machine called "the holiday". I employ both in the factory of UTO.
When I began knit work, it was good and heard, "knitting was over now and was absent and did it" in the exchanges with a factory. I thought that a rest would be what, but the rest was the pronoun of what linking did by the name of a hand-operated linking machine.
Still, it was that a person called the octagon which it was about time when it at the start, and lived in the Yodo River of Osaka in the Taisho era invented it when I thought, "I was absent" that it was the strange name and referred to the Marui fiber machine which sold most "holidays" in Japan.
It is light, and it spreads in Japan, and this hand-operated machine which does not take the space yet plays an active part in the machine which is ideal in small household industry in the times when the electricity is poor.
I think that it is the epoch-making invention by a Japanese staying in the knit history.
]]>It's a simple question, but what is thread ?
Yarn is something that is made by bundling fibers of a certain length and thickness and twisting them to make them longer.
I asked a professor at Tokyo University of Agriculture and Technology, and he said that there is actually no official definition.
Generally speaking, anything thicker than a thread is called a string, and a rope is even thicker. But I don't know what thickness the thread is and where the string starts.
Thread is related to knitting. At most a string.
Speaking of strings, around 1990, knits made with strings called tape yarn became popular.
Each strand of natural fiber, which is the raw material for yarn, is not very long. The length of raw cashmere wool ranges from 10 to 43 mm, and there is considerable variation, with ultra-high-quality cashmere having an average length of around 40 mm.There are various types of wool, and they vary in length, but they range from 25 mm to 150 mm. Even cotton has a length of 30 to 40 mm and is called extra-long fiber.
The diameter of cashmere fibers is approximately 14 microns (a micron is 1/1000 mm).
By the way, the high-quality wool of Gironram is 17.5 to 25 microns, and alpaca is 24 to 31.5 microns. Mohair is a little thicker, about 34.5 to 40 microns.
So you can see how fine cashmere is.
The mass of fibers is `` cotton .'' If you bundle the fibers and twist them, they won't come out even if you pull them.This is ``spinning'', which is the process of turning cotton into thread (spinning).
The thread that UTO mainly uses is 100% cashmere No. 26 twin thread . The number 26 is the thread count and indicates how thin the thread is.
That's where it's at. Wool count (note: cotton count is different) 1g of wool is pulled to 1 meter and twisted to create the 1st yarn (actually, it is pulled while being twisted), so 26th yarn is 1g of yarn. This means that the thread is drawn and twisted to a length of 26 meters.
If you can twist 1g of cotton for 1m, you are number one.
I can understand in my head that 1 gram of cotton is 26 meters long, but it doesn't seem very realistic.
However, I was surprised to see a craftsman actually spinning 1g of cotton into 26 meters by hand. This is truly the skill of a craftsman.
After winding the twisted thread for a while, the thread becomes stable.
To be more specific, the thread mentioned earlier is number 26 single thread. Of course, you can knit a sweater with this yarn, but you will need to put some extra effort into it.
That is the double thread process . The two yarns, the top-twist and the bottom-twist, cancel out the twists and create a stable yarn .
Since two number 26 threads are twisted together, the thickness is the same as a number 13 single thread.
As a side note, you can also create complex colored heathered threads by twisting threads of different colors together during double thread processing. The thread made by twisting three strands together is called mikko or miko .
The lower the thread count, the thicker the thread. It is useful to have a number in your head that will serve as your own standard.
When it comes to wool sweaters, if you remember that it is best to use yarn with the same thread count as the gauge, you won't have to worry about hitting the nail on the head.
When I talk to spinners, I sometimes hear things like, ``It's impossible to make knit yarn with this raw wool, so we have no choice but to use it as woven yarn .''
This may come as a surprise to everyone, but knitting yarn is the best raw material used to make yarn . Why is knitting yarn so high grade?
It's the sweetness of the twist.
The key to making durable yarn is the length of the fibers and the number of twists. The more twists you twist, the stronger the thread becomes, but the more twists you twist, the harder it becomes.
Knit yarn for softness . A textile yarn that requires durability . Each type has a suitable strength, and the threads are made accordingly.
To draw thin threads, regardless of the amount of fibers to be bundled, if you twist them strongly, they will be strong and can be drawn into even fairly thin threads. However, in the case of knitting yarn, fluffy yarn is essential, so it is not possible to twist it strongly.
If strong twisting cannot be applied, each raw material fiber must be long or it will fall out. I want to make soft yarn, but I can't twist it strongly, so I have no choice but to use long fiber raw materials. Those long, thin fibers are expensive.
This is a ridiculous story. It is said that knitting threads are twisted about 240 times per meter, but woven threads are twisted about 400 to 440 times.
Knit yarn is loosely twisted, so if you pull it too hard, it will come off. In order to prevent the yarn from falling out even when twisted, the only way is to use fibers that are as long as possible.
The longer the fibers, the higher the grade and price. (I feel like knitwear is cheap for that reason)
By the way, knitters say that they can tell whether a thread is good or bad just by setting it on a knitting machine and knitting it a little.
Threads other than wool are twisted to a certain degree, so they are less likely to come loose or break.
Wool, especially spun wool such as cashmere, angora, mohair, camel, and alpaca, each have their own unique characteristics, depending on the length of the fibers and the number of twists, so knowledge and experience are required. When the fibers of cashmere are short, they tend to come loose easily, and when the fibers are too tightly twisted, it is difficult to obtain texture even when the fibers are tightened. Alpaca is the easiest to shed, and its hair tends to stick to other things. Angora's hair breaks easily and scatters like dust, and mohair is a straight fiber that has poor elasticity and is difficult to weave. and so on…….
On the other hand, in the case of woven thread, it is twisted considerably to create a strong thread. The warp threads are stretched, the weft threads are passed through the weaving process, and then the weaving is carried out using a reed to form a single piece of cloth, so the threads must be strong and strong. To achieve this, we twist the yarn a large number of times to create a yarn that is resistant to pulling.
Cashmere fabrics are made by scratching the surface of the fabric to make the hairs stand up, creating a unique weave. The quality of the fluff greatly influences the evaluation of the fabric.
Since ancient times, the wild `` thistle '' mussel has been used to scratch and fluff fabric. For this reason, high-quality fabric production factories in Europe were growing thistles themselves. Nowadays, there are metal substitutes, but nothing beats the natural "thistle".
Manufacturers of cashmere fabrics often use the thistle seed mark, as if to show off their fluffing skills. The logos of Loro Piana and Cariagi, which are said to be representative of cashmere fabrics, also have a ``thistle seed'' design.
In this way, even if fibers are made from the same raw material, the requirements for the yarn are different, so the selection of raw materials will be different. It's quite deep and interesting.
during the rainy season. It would be very sad if the weather suddenly changed from sunny to rainy and your favorite clothes got wet.
If it's made of cashmere material, don't you worry about what to do with it?
So this time, I will tell you about " care when your cashmere knit stole gets wet due to rain " !
When the delicate cashmere gets wet in the rain...
First of all, the conclusion is that there is no problem with knitwear as long as you simply dry it in the shade (with good ventilation) and let it dry naturally .
It's ok to not be nervous! is.
*In the case of “knit”!
We recommend drying knits flat on a net to prevent them from stretching!
As long as you gently wipe off the water with a towel and dry it in the shade, you can prevent mold from forming, prevent sunburn, and maintain a soft texture.
however! The only thing to watch out for is “ friction ”!
Cashmere goat hair has fewer cuticles than other goats (wools) and is smooth!
Therefore, the hair is less likely to get tangled and felt (shrink) than wool, making it a material that is relatively easy to care for.
However, if "friction" occurs when it is wet, it will become felted , shrink, and change its fluffy texture. .
Even with beautiful cashmere, you need to be careful about friction !
In particular, ``woven'' stoles are characterized by their beauty and luster due to the lack of gaps, and even the slightest amount of felting can cause the ``weave'' to become loose and take away its beauty, so care must be taken.
vice versa,,,
The good thing about knits is that they are not affected by felting, so you don't have to be so nervous about them, and they are easy to wear every day !
If cashmere gets wet in the rain or snow
① Gently wipe off the moisture with a towel, etc. ② Dry it in the shade and there will be no problem!
The secret to keeping it in the same condition is to be careful about friction while wet !
]]>In a strange way, I'm impressed by how amazing cashmere is.
Cashmere is a color that has a unique softness because it covers even highly saturated colors with the excellent coloring properties of the delicate material. In a strange way, I'm impressed by how amazing cashmere is.
Even on the street, the thing that makes you think, ``Oh, this person is wearing a cashmere sweater'' is the delicate downy hair and unique coloring.
We all know that the appearance of color changes depending on the reflection of light, and the thinness of cashmere's fibers softens the reflection of light. The collection of thin fibers creates delicate shadows in the light and reduces diffused reflection, resulting in a uniformly soft appearance. The downy hair that is properly brushed is indescribable.
Even sweaters knitted with the same yarn may appear to be different colors if the fabric is changed.
This is also a change caused by the shading of light, but uniform jersey knitting (hiraori) and rubber knitting may look slightly different. When creating an ensemble with different knitted fabrics, you may wonder, ``Are they the same color?'' ” But when you put them together, they are the same.
Light magic is particularly likely to occur when the gauge is different due to lace knitting or a large number of strands, or when the sun is at an angle, which is why it is said to ``check the color in the morning.''
]]>When washing cashmere yourself, don't you worry that your favorite expensive sweater will shrink ?
The sweater that actually shrunk is an adult-sized sweater that has shrunk to the size of a child's sweater, and it is hard and stiff and felt and is in a very pitiful state. .
After seeing this, you may not feel like washing your clothes yourself, but today I will explain how to make them shrink like this .
If you know how to shrink, you won't have to worry about it shrinking, and if you wash it by hand, you'll be able to wear cashmere more often.
The reason why cashmere and other wool products shrink is due to the characteristics of the wool itself.
It's a microscopic world, like looking at wool fibers under a microscope.
Each wool fiber, like human hair (naturally, since they are made of the same protein), has scales, which are jagged edges that resemble fish scales, from the root to the tip.
The direction of this scale allows foreign substances such as sand and rain to naturally fall down and not get into the fur.
Part of that scale is generally called the cuticle (this is the cuticle you see in TV commercials).
When you stroke a strand of your own hair from top to bottom, it's smooth, but when you stroke it from bottom to top, there's some resistance. This is due to the orientation of the cuticle.
These scale-like cuticles open and close.
This is a wonderful feature of wool fibers; when the hair dries, it closes the cuticle to prevent the moisture from escaping, and conversely, when there is moisture or water, the cuticle opens and tries to let in moisture. .
In this way, living wool tries to maintain a constant level of moisture within the hair by opening and closing the cuticle. Humans can just put on clothes when it gets cold and take them off when it gets hot, but animals can't do that, so they use Ultra C to adjust their clothes.
Wool thread (wool fibers bundled and twisted) contains dozens of fibers, but the fibers are twisted in different directions, left and right. It's a pretty crowded situation for fibers.
When you bathe in water to wash your clothes, the cuticles of each bundled fiber open all at once. When wool fibers are crowded together (in the form of threads) and the cuticle is opened and strongly rubbed or kneaded, the wool fibers will try to move to the right (→) and to the left (←). Technically, this is called the ``directional friction effect,'' but when the fibers move and shrink, they become locked together and cannot return to their original state.
There is no problem at all if the friction is just a light wash, but if you scrub it hard and apply strong friction, or if it gets rubbed or tangled with other laundry in the washing machine, the ``directional friction effect'' increases and shrinks. This phenomenon occurs.
This directional friction effect tends to be stronger at higher temperatures . In particular, caution is required at temperatures above body temperature, as the effectiveness and speed will be doubled.
Wool fibers, including cashmere, have another wonderful function. I mentioned that the inside of the scale has the ability to absorb water, but the surface layer of the scale also has the ability to repel water. Therefore, wool products such as cashmere will repel small water droplets, so if you tap it lightly without penetrating the inside, the water droplets will scatter.
On the other hand, the inside is hydrophilic, so it absorbs water vapor and removes sweat buildup, making wool products refreshing when it's humid.
By the way, the moisture absorption rate of fibers is 8.5% for cotton, 4% for nylon, 2% for acrylic, and 0.4% for polyester, so they hardly absorb moisture. However, the wool is only 15%.
That's why it's never wrong to choose wool for summer clothes. However, animal hair other than wool has a strong warm feel, so it may not be suitable, but I think that fine-count, highly twisted wool yarn is definitely fine.
I have explained the factors that cause wool to shrink, but one important point is `` directional friction .''
Illustration of shrinking order
1. Wool fibers have scale-like scales (cuticles) that point in one direction from the hair root to the tip.
2. Entering water opens the cuticle.
3. The thread is mixed with wool.
4. Directional friction occurs due to friction during washing
5. Directional friction becomes stronger when the temperature is high (especially above body temperature)
6. Directional friction is further doubled due to friction between hot air and rotation in tumble dryers, etc.
The key to a washing method that does not cause shrinkage = directional friction is
1. With room temperature water (no need for lukewarm water)
2. Whisk the detergent well (to improve the slippage of the fibers)
3. Gently press and wash.Gently press and wash in a short time with less friction (you can also use the washing machine's hand wash mode)
4. Do not wash together with other clothing to avoid friction (be sure to wash only one piece)
5. After rinsing, replenish oil with rinse or fabric softener.
6. Remove water thoroughly (dehydrator is best)
7. Stretch to original size and dry flat
As long as you keep the points above, you don't have to worry about it shrinking.
Dry means ``do not wash with water.''
Since the wool is washed with petroleum-based solvents instead of water, the cuticles of the wool fibers do not open, meaning that even a little friction will not cause the fibers to become clogged.
]]>This is because this item, like the "Angel's Stole", is an original UTO product.
"I want to make a nice stole with slanted ends."
“It’s unlike anything else in the world.”
One day a long time ago, I suddenly felt that way when I saw a "scarf".
If so, how can I make the ends of the knit at an angle?
“I have no choice but to cut it.”
"If you cut it, it will fray because it's knit."
“To prevent it from fraying, either fold it or attach something to it.”
None of the methods are beautiful, what should I do?
Three years have passed since then...One day, I suddenly remembered something.
In the past, British-made knitwear had a problem because it ran diagonally.
Why did British knitwear go skewed?
The answer is that when making knits, normally twin yarns (two single yarns twisted together) are used, but in the past, in England, single yarns were used.
“If I knit it with a single thread, maybe it will be diagonal?”
From there, the development of the ``diagonal stall'' began.
However, it was very difficult to complete it.
“Is single yarn available in Japan?”
“The spinning shop should have the yarn before double-thread processing...there it was!”
When I found the thread I was looking for, I immediately spoke to a craftsman on the phone.
“Can you really knit with that single yarn?”
"Of course, it's difficult! The yarn is weak because of the wrong count, so it will break."
Visit the craftsman with the thread and ask for it directly.
"Can't you knit something?"
It is the craftsmen who cannot simply refuse when someone comes .
I asked her to touch the thread and said, ``Maybe I can knit it. ''
I'll try knitting it anyway.
At first, I knit with some trepidation, taking care not to break the threads.
"Oh! I can knit! That's amazing! (I'm so happy)"
“Have it finished and it’s completed!! Yatta!”
``But if a craftsman knits each piece one by one, it's an expensive item, at around 40,000 to 50,000 yen, more than twice the price of an autumn/winter stole .''
“Is it possible to knit with a machine and make it affordable while maintaining the same quality ?”
This time we went to UTO's own factory in Iwate.
“I think it would be difficult to knit such thin threads of different counts because even though you can knit them by hand, the machine has a strong pulling force.But I will try!”
“We were not successful with two traditional knitting machines.”
“But, you can knit with the newly introduced knitting machine!”
“Even if you can knit it, the ends are diagonal, making it difficult to finish!”
Through repeated trial and error, I finally completed a cashmere knit stole with diagonal ends.
Nickname!
After consultation with Kitakami City Hall, Kitakami citizens and Iwate Prefecture residents can apply.
We received 30 applications and received wonderful names such as "SHIRAYURI STOLE" and "Yuka", but we decided on " Thronting Stole " by Mr. Yaba of Morioka City!
Originally I wanted it to be diagonal! The Thronting Stole was completed after a long story that started with a thought.
It's so thin that it's almost see-through, and even two delicate cashmere threads are combined into one, and it's so soft you'll be enchanted.
Nowadays, we have gotten rid of the image of cashmere as an autumn/winter material, and it has been well received as a cashmere stole that you can wear from spring to autumn.
]]>When I talk to spinners, I sometimes hear things like, ``It's impossible to make knit yarn with this raw wool, so we have no choice but to use it as woven yarn.''
]]>This may sound like a boast about knitting, but it is a little-known fact that when making (spinning) yarn from natural raw materials, knitting yarn is the best raw material.
There are times when knitters say, ``The length of the cashmere raw material makes it impossible to use knit thread, so we use woven thread instead.'' Why is knitting yarn so high grade?
It's the sweetness of the twist.
The key to making durable yarn is the length of the fibers and the number of twists.
The more twists you twist, the stronger the thread becomes, but the more twists you twist, the harder it becomes.
Each type has a suitable strength, and the threads are made accordingly.
In order to draw thin threads, regardless of the amount of fibers to be bundled, if you twist them strongly, you will be able to draw even fairly thin threads.
However, in the case of knitting yarn , fluffy yarn is essential, so it is not possible to twist it too tightly.
It's a rough number, but it seems that knitting threads are twisted about 240 times per meter, while weaving threads are twisted about 400 to 440 times.
Since strong twisting cannot be applied, each raw material fiber must be long.
Those "long, thin fibers" are expensive.
Knitters say that they can tell whether a thread is good or bad just by setting it on a knitting machine and knitting it a little.
Threads other than wool are twisted to a certain degree, so they are less likely to come loose or break.
Wool, especially spun wool such as cashmere, angora, mohair, camel, and alpaca, each have their own characteristics as raw materials, and differences occur in fiber length and number of twists, so knowledge and experience are required. .
When the fibers of cashmere are short, they tend to come loose easily, and when the fibers are too tightly twisted, it is difficult to obtain texture even when the fibers are tightened. Alpaca is the easiest to shed, and its hair tends to stick to other things. Angora hair breaks easily and scatters like dust, and mohair is a straight fiber that has poor elasticity and is difficult to weave, etc.
It's quite deep and interesting.
]]>One of UTO's original products, the one-of-a-kind colored "angel stole in various colors". We will tell you the secret story behind the birth and production of this popular product that was born from the concept of eco and is sold out every year!
]]>
"I want to get rid of the residual thread of different colors that can't be helped"
As a rule of thumb, ladies' sweaters weigh 250g and men's sweaters weigh around 300g.
Of course, it depends on the size and length. It is just a guide.
The smallest unit to buy thread is 1kg. Not only cashmere yarn but also materials such as wool and cotton are wrapped in 1kg (called corn).
"Lot" is a must-check for both sellers and buyers.
A lot is a unit in which a thread is made (spun), and the lot number is always written on the thread. If this lot number is different, it will be difficult.
The biggest problem with different lots is the different colors, and even if the colors are the same, different lots will be slightly different.
Even if you compare them with threads (corns), you can't understand them at all, and even if you take care and knit with different lots of threads from the middle, the human eye will recognize that they are slightly different.
The human eye is amazing.
(Even if the cotton is dyed in the same way, the color will be slightly different as shown in the photo. To eliminate this difference as much as possible,Blend of 5 cotton (blue)And aim for a similar color.
Still, they don't look exactly the same color.
As an aside, I mixed 5 colors to get the color.Deep colors that are not monotonousWill be. )
If you knit three sweaters that weigh 300g for one piece, the weight is 900g for 300g x 3 pieces. In this case, 1 kg is enough, but if you try to knit another sweater with a different lot of yarn using the remaining 100 g of yarn, you cannot use the same color. Even if I try to knit an angel's stole, it costs 120g per sheet, so I can't knit it. I can't return it (of course!), So I'll wait for a chance to use it as part of the color scheme or make small items, but small cones will accumulate in the factory.
I have to get rid of this residual thread.
Top quality raw materials. A thread that costs 1 kg and costs 10,000 yen.
It's too wasteful that you can't use it because the lot is different.
I squeezed my head every day to somehow cash the precious and expensive cashmere, and this "Various angel stalls"is.
The small remaining thread is connected to a single thread and wound into a cone while imagining the color and quantity of the finished product.
I'm also looking forward to imagining what color threads are left and how many color combinations are possible.
(Connect the remaining threads to one thread while imagining the finished product)
Knit with the wound thread in the same way as an angel's stole.
Of course, the color changes on the way, but thatThe seams will come out in the middle of the knitted fabric。
Many people don't care, but in UTO, the principle of switching borders and threads is "knitting end", so it cannot be put out as a proper product.
Only one color angel is at a reasonable price
So various mufflers / stalls"In translation" service itemI decided to sell it as.
The softness, warmth, etc. are exactly the same as the actual product except for the color switching. If you like the color scheme, it's a bargain like no other.
We hope you enjoy the various color schemes this time as well. Uto
We experienced the process by which the harvested cashmere is turned into the world's finest fluffy cashmere material by the hands of local professionals.
<<“To the hometown of cashmere (2) Experience the work of a cashmere herder family”
Hair-harvested cashmere (cashmere)
It's a far cry from the fluffy cashmere stuffed in such a big bag, but this is the fruit of the year.
Cashmere brought to collection point
It's a huge amount though
I often carry such big luggage.
How did we get here?
Recognize the strength of pastoralists
After the harvest, business begins
Mr. Wu is a buyer of raw cashmere wool.
My job is to buy cashmere from herders.They seem to be much richer than herders.
``Are you going to work only in May, the harvest season? ”
“Is that why you’re so wealthy? ”
“Good business! ”
"joke! joke! ' But it doesn't seem like it's all true.
The first thing professionals look at is
suppleness
First of all, it seems that if you grab it with Munzu, you can tell whether it is pliable or not by its elasticity.
Be sure to check the length of the fur
The average hair length is 40 mm, which is the highest quality.This one has hair that is about 100 mm long!
Even as an amateur, I can feel that this is the world's top cashmere production area.
A pile of collected cashmere
That's a huge amount!
A bag full of cashmere that looks like it's about to burst. It's an overwhelming amount of cashmere from all over Mongolia. I can't believe it's cashmere.
People are also filled with cashmere, so the bags are all different because they were collected from various herders.
When you open it, the cashmere dust that bursts out of the bag makes it yellowish, but the downy hair is actually pure white.It still smells, but it's not as bad as I expected.Maybe it's because the air is dry. Probably
This is the world's best cashmere!
When I opened the package and jumped into raw cashmere, it seemed pleasant, but it smelled...
It will now be processed into the world's leading brand cashmere.
That must be a huge amount!
A billion yen? !
The cashmere wool that has left the hands of the herders is used for sorting work.
After running around in the wilderness for a year, the cashmere wool has all kinds of things attached to it, including soil, leaves, and skin of plants.
many women with their hands
Removes dust trapped in cashmere wool
It's a daunting task!
Hair will fly if you are not fully armed.
They work silently, but even though they are very shy, they smile when we meet their eyes.
It's so quiet even though there are so many people
It's a simple job, but for the people of this area, it's a valuable job that provides a valuable opportunity to earn cash. It's especially important for illiterate people, and the state government is paying attention to it.
However, there are probably not many people in developed countries who can do this job.
Hair washing process
In the spring, last year's hair is combed to refresh the cashmere downy hair, which grows to a sufficient length in one year, but it still has dirt from the past year.
After cleaning out dust and branches, wash the hair.
I wash it over and over again on a 50 meter long line.
black at first
Most of it is soil
The whiteness will return after washing 4 to 5 times.
When washed and dehydrated, it looks like cashmere.
After washing and drying, the hair that comes out is pure white! !
The next step is the hair styling process!
The last step in making cashmere cotton is hair styling. Hair styling is a processing process unique to cashmere.
Washed cashmere hair
The process of separating hard bristles (stinging hair) and downy hair
technically the most difficult
The parted down hair is like cotton candy.It's so light and fluffy that it makes you happy.
Cotton after haircut
This will be exported to the world's top spinning companies.
When the hair is straightened, check it first
Check the mixture ratio of bristles called stinging hair. Stinging hairs are allowed if the downy hair ratio is less than 0.1% or more than 99.9%.
Draw downy hair and prickly hair on black paper
with human eyes
Sort out the downy hair one by one with tweezers
It's a very tiring job that requires you to hold your breath.
Data is very important I'm surprised that there are people who write data, are they strict or do they have leeway?
As someone who makes the final product, when a sweater is finished, I carefully check to make sure there are no embroidered hairs.
Even if you do this far, it still won't be zero.
Cashmere is a natural fiber, so tweezers are essential when making sweaters.
Since cashmere is subject to such strict production control, it is difficult to imagine that it would be artificially caused by more than 1% of non-cashmere hair being mixed in.
It's called cashmere fiber length, but how do you measure the length of that thin cashmere downy hair? I couldn't even imagine it!
seeing is believing
Cashmere fiber length is the most important factor in determining quality and price.
Even high quality long fiber cashmere
Without advanced hair styling techniques, the fibers will fall apart.
It seems like they won't let me see this part of the test...
Good raw materials and excellent technology I love cashmere and knitwear, and my desire to deliver good products to our customers makes me realize that I can only make good products if I connect with them all the way to the end.
Cashmere is fun! ! !
]]>We were able to watch the farmers, Mori and his wife, show us how cashmere hair is harvested.
<<“To the hometown of cashmere (1) To meet the cashmere people of Inner Mongolia”
Mori and his wife are cashmere herders.
Mr. Mori has been working as a cashmere herder since his father's time. He is gentle and shy.
Mori and his wife have two daughters.
He's still in elementary school, and he lives in a boarding school in town and comes home on weekends.
I can't wait for the weekend!
When I talk about children, my face smiles.
Even though it's spring, it's over 30 degrees outside at noon and the humidity is low, so the cashmere goat hut is very cool.
Before being combed, the cashmere animals are not put out to pasture, but instead wait in the shed, waiting for their turn.Everyone is very quiet.
It doesn't smell as bad as I expected, probably because it's dry.
Cashmere is plump before being combed.
Mr. Mori casually catches the corner of the cashmere and lays it down.
``Sometimes he gets violent, so I just tie his legs,'' he says with a laugh.
Start combing the cashmere that is lying flat, starting from the neck.
When you start combing, the cashmere has dark eyes and looks comfortable.
This is what I was most concerned about before coming here.
It's ``Are humans abusing cashmere? ”
It's obvious that humans are happy to have fluffy cashmere hair, but if cashmere is abused and only humans feel good about it, then I, who work in cashmere for a living, would be really worried.
Maybe I'll have no choice but to give up on the cashmere business...
Today, when I saw cashmere that looked comfortable as a tron, my long-standing worries disappeared.
I'll never forget that scene.
It takes about an hour to comb one cow,
My wife also started combing the comb together, so after about 30 minutes I was like, ``I've finished combing!'' ”
Each person spends 10 hours combing the cashmere, producing 10 cashmere. A couple makes 300 cashmere per month, so it doesn't seem like they can manage 600. It seems that the average number a family can manage is around 300. These 300 are what support the family.
Mr. Mori gave me cashmere combing tools handmade by Mr. Mori.
It looks like a pitchfork, but the tip is not pointed.
Infused with love for cashmere
It's my treasure!
Spring/May
Late spring in the highlands, the grasses in the semi-desert begin to bud, and you can also see small insects and pretty flowers.
The pastoral farmer is
When night falls, we separate the cashmere that will be combed today from the cashmere that will be grazing.
The cashmere combing the downy hair today went to the shed.
Take other cashmere out to pasture
・
Cashmere looks warm and whole before it is combed.
“Mr. Mori! ”
“At what age can cashmere be harvested? ”
“You can get the best hair from ages 3 to 5.”
“Males have longer hair.”
“Huh, that’s right.”
“Then, male cashmere is better! ”
“But females give birth to children.”
“It also produces milk.”
Doesn't seem to care much about gender
The cashmere after hair removal is thin!
Even as we talk, Mori's hand doesn't stop combing the cashmere.
When I finished combing the cashmere, I thought, ``I'm so thin!'' ”, everyone was surprised.
``It's hot now! ”
“It’s hot when you wear such hot hair! It's cooler this way.''
And Mr. Mori
"spring"
・
Season of harvesting downy hair and birth of children
Spring is a double joy
Arashan's cashmere is almost pure white.
Some children are brown
There was also a black child
Even in May, there are times when the weather suddenly changes and cold waves arrive, and the small children spend their time in the hut.They are all timid and huddle together in a corner.
Continued “To the hometown of cashmere (3) How the world’s best cashmere is made” >>
]]>In October 2011, we moved our factory from Yamanashi to Iwate in search of knitting craftsmen.
At that time, the Tohoku region was still in chaos, six months after the Great East Japan Earthquake, and nearly 600 people from the coastal areas were evacuated to Kitakami City, which suffered relatively little damage.
We, as newcomers, thought there was something we could do as corporate citizens, and by donating 100 yen through our main business, cashmere pullovers, for every item sold, we raised the cost of kerosene to get through the cold Tohoku winters. However, I wanted people to do something for me, so I started making donations through Kitakami City Hall.
At the same time, we decided to make and sell the world's softest ``angel bookmarks,'' which include the appeal of cashmere, and donate 100 yen for each book sold.
These ``cashmere angel bookmarks'' are handmade one by one by UTO employees, taking into consideration the combination of the color of the body and the color of the tassel.
Each piece costs about 500 yen, but we sell it for 300 yen.
colorful tassels
The combination of the color of the main body of the bookmark and the color of the tassel is also handmade!
Each design is different,
It will be delivered randomly.
We donate 100 yen to support the victims of the Great East Japan Earthquake, and since 2012 we have donated over 3.5 million yen.
Through donations, Kitakami City Hall delivered ``kerosene purchase tickets'' and ``Disaster Prevention Radios'' (above) free of charge to those evacuated to Kitakami City.
We also recently received a direct thank you from someone who supported us five years ago.
``At that time, I was able to stay warm during the cold winter, and when I was evacuated to an unknown place and felt very lonely and anxious, I was able to hear the voices of those around me through the ``disaster prevention radio.'' I am very grateful that I am now able to spend my days with a feeling of peace of mind."
I felt happy to hear that and to know that I was connected to the support of so many people.
As time passes, memories of the tragic Great East Japan Earthquake are gradually fading, and donations seem to be decreasing.
He also said that he is looking for the "next step" from the 10-year "reconstruction support" stage.
After hearing his story, we too, as manufacturers in Iwate, Tohoku, are searching for the "next step."
We would like to continue to do what we can as a corporate citizen of Iwate, so that we can become a major force in supporting and revitalizing Tohoku by focusing on "manufacturing the best products" locally and delivering "the best cashmere knits" to everyone. I think so.
Currently working around the world
・SDGs ( Sustainable Development Goals )
・Sustainable
SDGs are 17 goals adopted by the United Nations that should be achieved between 2015 and 2030 in order to solve various social issues and make the world sustainable .
UTO has been making "cashmere knits " for about 30 years since its founding , but since the SDGs have been raised globally, we have been working with more awareness of " What about our own manufacturing?"
Therefore, this time I wrote about "Cashmere and SDGs" .
``Cashmere goats may have their precious downy hair forcibly harvested from humans.''
``Aren't they being sacrificed by humans? ”, I was worried deep down in my heart.
Since UTO was founded in 1992, Uto has been making cashmere for many years, but that image has stuck somewhere in the back of his mind.
He believed that if by any chance humans abused cashmere to obtain downy hair, he would not be able to do this job.
During such a period, I visited the `` Mori-san '' who make a living from cashmere in the 1,500 -meter highlands of China's Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region , and I had the experience of hearing their stories and seeing them with my own eyes. there was.
The biggest gain at that time was " the positive relationship between cashmere goats and humans . "
It is said that if the downy hair of cashmere goats is not combed by humans, it will fall off naturally when it changes to summer hair, or it will be rubbed against rocks etc. to remove the hair.
This can cause sand to get into the coat and damage it, so it is said that it is best for cashmere goats to comb their down coat when it is growing back.
Still, ``Doesn't it hurt when a cashmere goat has its downy hair combed? ' I was still worried.
Seeing my worried expression, Mr. Mori, with a smile on his face, said, ``If you hurt cashmere goats or treat them roughly, they will cry because they don't like it, but since it's cashmere that they've grown, if you take care of it, it won't hurt at all and they won't dislike it.'' Yo.
"Anyway, I'll show you something," he said as he led me to his workplace.
Mr. Mori first turned the cashmere goat over to comb its wool.
Cashmere looked surprised for a moment, but when Mori-san started combing her downy hair with something like a rake, she soon became quiet and her eyes became soft and comfortable.
When I looked at the condition of the cashmere, all my worries disappeared and I felt really relieved.
“The good relationship between cashmere and humans”
During that precious trip where I actually saw and heard about the local area, the most important thing I learned was learning about the relationship between cashmere and humans.
From that experience, I am convinced that cashmere is an SDG .
Please use UTO's cashmere products with confidence.
However, cashmere is a precious raw material, so we should cherish it and use it with gratitude.
“To the hometown of cashmere (1) Meet the cashmere people of Inner Mongolia” >>
]]>This is a record of when I went to see cashmere across semi-deserts and mountains to Alashan, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region.
North from Yinchuan, the capital of Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, the destination is Inner Mongolia.
Just in case anything happens, I loaded up a lot of plastic bottles and set out!
Running through the dry semi-desert
The Galan Mountains on the state border have almost no trees and are reddish-brown mountains, like Son Goku's flaming mountain.I shudder to think of my car breaking down in a place like this.
The Great Wall of China is about to collapse on the way
Crossing the Galan Mountains at the state border
Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region/Alashan
Arashan!
A longed-for place, Arashan!
The world's best cashmere can be found here
A dream destination for those involved in cashmere
Alashan is located at a altitude of 1,500 meters in southern Inner Mongolia, and has a harsh environment with temperatures of -30 degrees Celsius in winter and easily over 40 degrees Celsius in summer.
It is because of this harsh climate and environment that God must have given Cashmere that fluffy fur to protect her.
The air is clear and the sun is bright
A sudden encounter with the long-awaited cashmere
Crossed the mountain on the border between Ningxia and Inner Mongolia
Suddenly encountering cashmere
A group of cashmere trees cross the road on their way to pasture.
“It’s cashmere!” !
There is a cry of surprise inside the car.
From Tokyo to Beijing,
Ginkawadomari,
Until Arashan
As soon as I arrived at Alashan after a long and exhausted day, I easily encountered Cashmere!
Everyone got off at the same time and had a photo session.
The pastor's brother also seems confused.
The scenery of ``A green meadow dotted with sheep'' is
UK, Australia, New Zealand
・
Not that rich nature
Cashmere grows by eating sparse plants in the semi-desert.
"That's big issue! ” is my first impression.
It's a really tough environment
Cashmere requires frequent movement and large areas of land as the sparse plant is eaten to its core.
Climb to the top of the mountain and eat
She listens carefully to what the herdsmen say and moves smoothly.When I approached to take a photo, she quietly ran away and before I knew it, all I could take in the photo was the back of Cashmere.
Children who were just born this year were also in the group.
very cute
Spring/May After a long, harsh winter, spring has arrived in the highlands of Arashan.
Clear everywhere,
The sky of Alashan is high and blue
Even though it's spring, after noon
It's over 30 degrees outside
Humidity is less than 10%
Feel the difference from sheep growing in green pastures
Cashmere is truly a gift of nature.
Continued “To the hometown of cashmere (2) Experience the work of a cashmere herder family”>>
]]>
There seem to be many people who take it for "cleaning absolute as for the cashmere" unexpectedly.
Called "2-3 times of because must give a laundryman it if wear it 金 がかかるのよねぇ" often hear a voice.
It is light, and the soft and fluffy cashmere knit is expensive again feebly, and what it is worry that shrink and starts for cleaning may be natural.
There is the cashmere of UTO for dry indication for the time being, too.
But I explain it to the person whom I met directly and recommend a bathroom by oneself. It is an act to contradict it, but does not do it for hand-washing indication daringly because there is much misunderstanding.
I can never shrink when I wash it from now on in 通 to explain. Please wash it by oneself simply because it is important cashmere knit.
The point is, "it is easy to shrink if there are many things to wash together" which "it is easy to shrink if it has a long time to wash it when it is easy to shrink if temperature of the water is high, and fuzz is easy to stand".
As for "the washing, there is a person with tepid water" well, but I cannot understand the reason well. Normal temperature is enough for the temperature of the washing, and even slightly cold water does not mind if even a detergent melts.
Please be careful about friction than it. It is to push it in a short time, and to wash it, and to do by one piece. Besides, I am tender. Even the hand-washing mode of the washing machine is all right.
I thought that there was not the person who scrubbed cashmere, but I washed it with other laundry hard and "became fluffy" The person cannot believe it whom と objection is said to comes to the inside.
I push it with a detergent and shampoo of the wool washing for a short time and wash it and do it, and the normal dirts should be produced. Is the shampoo usable? The とおっしゃる person comes, but originally protein, the shampoo may be more expensive than a detergent, but what I wash by one's shampoo thinks both the hair and the cashmere to be the first.
The twist is more generous in the knit thread than a cloth, and the dirts are easy to be produced beyond comparison if I compare 編地 with the ramming down of the cloth because it is 疎.
I wash the partial outstanding dirt under running water with a finger, and still the dirt which is not removed, please think with a stain than I say with a dirt. Because the thing which protein changes, and became a stain is a domain of the experts beyond the ranges of the washing, I am not produced even if I wash it hard.
I wear the softening agents such as conditioners if you finish washing it, and, please rinse it out enough. I supplement an oil removed with a dirt with a detergent and protect fiber. Because both the hair and the wool are the basically same.
Of the backDiaphragmIt is a が point.
Please completely take the moisture by a spin-drier. "エ エ!" By a spin-drier There are many surprised people, but と is so a spin-drier.
I show courage, and, please turn it by a spin-drier. Of course, please fold it properly.
It is the dehydration method that is kind to fiber much more than I squeeze it with towels because the sweater in the spin-drier sticks to a drum and splashes water by centrifugal force.
It is hard to lose shape when I take the moisture. Fix the form after dehydration; and flat; dried です.
The tops such as nets are the best, but will be good generally what it is on a bath towel.
I lengthen it by the dimensions of the sweater before washing it, and, please fix the dimensions on this occasion.
I upset it in half day, and, please change the position of the bath towel. The bottom of the sweater is considerably watery when I do not do so it. When with the ventilation is easy to dry and guesses the wind such as electric fans right, I dry early. Of course a positive may prove right a little.
When I hang it in the state of the half diaphragm and air it, water collects towards a bottom and lengthens with the heaviness, and the state that lengthened settles when I dry. It is the model of a bad dried way.
In addition, the hot-air drier is strict prohibition because I have a felt phenomenon by a hot wind when I put it in a dryer and shrink like child use. This is a phenomenon peculiar to wool and can shrink because how to make felt is this method.
If even cashmere follows even the point, no problem happens by normal hand-washing.
If a cashmere product of my UTO shrinks by this method, I trade with new one or return the price and do it.
I have not listened to the story that he/she was pleased to show you this method when everybody got nervous softly and failed in.
I have you inquire into everybody by oneself and wear it more and yet more, and, please enjoy good cashmere.
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Woven fabrics are the mainstream of cashmere stoles, but knit stoles are stalls that you can't let go of once you use them.
-Characteristics of angel stalls-
★Loosely sweetly knitted cashmere with plenty of airSuperb warmth
★Anywayslight!I forget to wear it
★Even if you hang it on your shoulder, such as from the top of a coat, it is knit so it is hard to fall off
★The stretch of the knit fits the body and neck and is easy to roll
★Convenient to wrap around and carry (easy to handle without wrinkles)
UTO cashmere grows up! !!
We often get questions from our customers, "How do you grow them?", But in reality, they grow easily!
UTO cashmere knit products“Machine wash at homeOK”(Drum type is not possible)
Plenty of 2 to 3 times a year"Water"(*The entangled fibers are removed by washing with (point)"Fluffy"As you get older, you can enjoy the texture that is different from when it is new.
*The angel series can be washed normally. Please try it as it does not easily lose its shape.
↓↓
[How to wash at home]
・ The water temperature is30Below degrees (normal water temperature)
・ Fold it neatly, put it in the net and put it in the washing machine.
・ Detergent is a wool washing detergent, wash with a hand-washing course that can wash delicate materials, use a fabric softener, and then dehydrate in a washing machine.
* Hand squeezing may cause wrinkles, shrinkage, and elongation, so a dehydrator is recommended.
・ Shape it to its original size and lay it flat.
* Please do not use the dryer as it may cause shrinkage and hairballs.
“The best raw wool” and “the best spinning”
Was givenRare cashmere 1st grade threadOnly used.
Grades from "1 to 9" are given according to the length and fineness of the fiber and the mixing rate of foreign substances.
The amount of cashmere that can be obtained from the head of the cashmere goat, which is the raw material, is only about 170g.
Valuable1100% grade cashmereIt is knitted luxuriously.
UTO1992From the year28Year,Specializing in cashmere knitWe plan and sell it at our own factory in Kitakami City, Iwate Prefecture, and carefully manufacture each one.
It is said that there are few companies in the world that specialize in cashmere knitwear.Material / texture / feelTo keep "high quality" made in Japan That's why I keep sticking to.
~ Commitment ~
Shukuju = washing process that determines the texture
By washing it so that it can swim, the cashmere's original downy hair can be raised.
Shukuju requires a high level of skill and skill.
Commitment to natural drying
After squeezing, the cashmere knit is dried.
Nowadays, it is common to use a dryer to dry in a short time,UTOAre all "naturally dried".
It takes time and effort, but it is the gentlest way to cashmere.
UTO cashmere is alwaysAbundant colors "20color"You can choose from.
Color is the life of knitwear. The excellent color of cashmere is due to the spinning company's "dyeing masters".
"Top dyeing" (dyeing from cotton)Blend many colors in the state of cottonThen, one "color" is completed. For example, "standard color red" is blended with "3 to 5 different colors of red".
Gray etc. are included as "black, white, light beige, dark beige, light purple, blue", and "depth" comes out in the color.
We carefully knit the yarn because it is a yarn that has been spun by "coloring" with such effort.
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You might think it was something that spread the great Furoshiki (the great furoshiki).However, in the near future, the UTO is seriously aiming for a company that is recognized by the world as "the UTO for Kashmiyah Nit."
It was a big change in the fashion industry that was involved with the fashion industry by touring the fashion of European fashion when traveling abroad, and the fashion industry was involved in the tour.At last it was a nitshop.Forty years since.As a fashion shop, I was able to study and study a lot.
Since the beginning of becoming a nitya, I have been fascinated by this light and tender kashimiya, and I will gamble with Kashmiyah, who has been studying for herself, and I will aim at the world in the betting of my life.
In 1992, the company launched its own brand "bhf International" to challenge the building of a variety of designs and materials.Angola, Moheya, and Alpaca, of course, of the autumn and winter material.And the favourite Kashmia.Spring and summer are cotton, hemp, silk, and so on.
From the beginning, I wanted to make things by using as natural materials as possible.I don't like chemical fibers and synthetic fibers, but I like to use natural materials from natural resources, and I think it can be helpful to a bit of people who produce raw materials while coexisting with nature.I also think that it is possible to make things more eco-friendly to the global environment.
Although it was an independent initial and best effort to make it possible to deal with all kinds of materials, the material was too deep to be satisfied with himself, and the only thing left was the sense of defeat and inventory, and it was only a mini edition of the old company, and it was not attractive.The increase in the number of goods is one of the reasons for the increase in the number of products, which is one of the reasons for the anxiety, and the experience of the increased number of people is that "there is nothing to do, but in the end, nothing can be done".
I hope that the number of designs will increase, but the number of products produced at that time is 100 sheets and lots of lots are high.I asked the factory to manage it for 80 lots, so I had to ask for it to be made.
On the other hand, sales are about half as much as the number of manufactured goods during the exhibition, as the bubble bursts and the market is rapidly cooling down.Subsequent additional orders are not included, and the money is not so good as they stand up and nowhere.
This situation will continue to be difficult for me to do.With the debt of my father-in-law managed by my father-in-law, I managed to get out of the stock and borrow money right away.As a result of the crisis, the company gave up its brand and was forced to sell the factory brand in the form of a tie-up with the factory, and managed to escape the crisis.
About one month after the company started its preparations for the operation, the company president told him that he had a conversation with the company president.I finally got out of the crisis and I was thrunned with a sales plan that I wanted to sell to Yamagata."Tomorrow, the company went bankrupt, and now it's gone to the court," said the president.
It was said that the two billion yen notes received were caused by bankruptcy.This is the first white state of the head.Even if this house is the last one to stay with, I could not sleep, so I would like to return to Tokyo the next morning for a grace period for the financial institutions to pay back the money and to retreat to the office's retreat.If you go into bankruptcy, your home will be gone, and you will be able to cheer your house as collateral.I took a look at the abyss in Hell and disposed of the inventory, and managed to move his office to his home without causing trouble to others.
Since then, I have worked hard for the next four years, and when I managed to cut down my debt in half, I was able to learn about the Attackers Business School, which was hosted by Kenichi Omae, the most respected economist of the book, at the website of the book, and to be given the private cram school.The business plan to be submitted in the course of implementing the new business is "the business plan for the realization of the world's best Kasmiyanit manufacturers."
I will try again for the failed niche maker.I had decided that I would be able to narrow my confidence in Kashiwamiya, which I had been fascinated since I had become a nitshop where I loved myself, and I was fascinated by the fascinating Kashmiyah.If I had not liked it, I would have no regret, and the cloud of clouds that had been covered with heavy covers was the same as it was.Of course I am sure that I will be able to take care of him by narrowing them to the Kashmiyah, but I think that this was the only choice for a man who has no talent like himself to be a man of the kind.
In addition, there was a place where Kashmiyi was confident and confident that he could win.It has been in the industry for forty years, and I have visited many factories in Hong Kong, Taiwan, South Korea, and the highest mountain in Britain and Italy, and I have had the opportunity to work with the factory workers who are producing world-famous brands in such a way.The mental attitude and passion and enthusiasm of the management and employees of manufacturing facilities, technology and manufacturing of such factories.One factor is that the world has been able to see some of the levels of the world.
From now on, it was a business model that has never been done at the company level, in the personal age, in Kashmiyah, the best material, by "making a sweater in the desired dimension of each individual's wish."This business model of "manufacturing, selling and selling and selling and selling" in the distribution industry of "manufacturing and selling and remaining bargain" is the supply chain management argument, and it is impressive that someone at a business school said, "It's an ideal, but it looks like a picture of a critic painting."
How can you make a single sheet of work done by the factory, which offers a poor job for the job?If it were not for profit, the first would be good, but it would be impossible to find it in the first.If they are not wine-w-in, they will not succeed.
I was prepared to make a sample of Cashmiyas between OEMA and Uchida, who had been making a knitted with an OEM, and prepared for the first time in 2002 by preparing a sample of Cashmiyas.Ten years have passed since it was first concected and prepared.
I am not sure that even if you have confidence that you will be able to get a personal service of "your favorite color and your desired size and size" in 54 colors, you can't really be sure of it until you actually get your order.I was convinced that this business style, which I had started with hope, was a success of Mr. Garson in Takeo, Fukui Prefecture."There was no risk at the store, and the customer was willing to order, and I think this is the best way to do it," said Hirayama's words, which made him believe in the business.I am very grateful, and I watched the match between England and Brazil at the station yard while waiting for the return train, and it is burnt down by the eyelids.
If the order goes well, it won't make it in time for production.The next goal was to have a factory.There is no place where there is no change in the production of a single sheet of production, and the limit of production is the limit of sales.I receive a lot of orders and are often scolded to be scolded by the delivery of goods.At that time, I had a meeting with Sano, who was the head of a factory in front of a factory in Yamanashi factory, in a 'nimo' (a) meeting.Now that we can now produce a complete production, I think it was a great deal for him to launch a single factory from zero.and it's a great effort to create a high degree of perfumer.
From now on, it is possible to stabilize the management by cultivating the spring and summer material, which only has been the only ingredience in the autumn and winter season.It was a seasonal business such as apples that continued to make Kasumiya both in the spring and summer, when autumn and summer were able to be converted into cash, as well as the production capacity problem.
The future.UTO"If you are Kashmiyah, from the world, from the world, to make a sophisticated, highly polite recipe that is cultivated in Kashmiyah,"UTOI aim to be a manufacturer.
In the end, all of the employees who are always willing to do what they like to do is cheerful and willing to do so, Mr. Uchida, Nitto's mentor, Mr. Yamashita, the head of the Oriental Spinning and Steel Manufacturing Company, and Mr. Ishii, president of the Oriental Institute of Oriental Products, Mr. Kimura of the Foundation and the Mao Products Inspection Association, Mr. Abe of Estee Chemicals, and Mr. Abe, the managing director of the Chemicals, and, thanks to you, we will thank you all for the time.
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The animal is an animal of the friends of the alpacas called "a vicuna" living in the mountainous areas more than 5,000 meters above sea level of the South America Andes.
I have looked only with a photograph and a picture, but do dark brown with the pretty figure which a corner thins the neck of the deer which there is not and did smartly. The hair is shiny and seems to be fiber of the world's best fluent feel (I have not touched it).
By the way, as for the thickness of the fiber of the vicuna, length is 50 millimeters from 20 millimeters at 18 microns from 10 microns.
A vicuna is the rare wild animal which I cannot domesticate with timidity very much, and hair is not almost produced by the Washington Convention now because it is protected globally. I have heard a rumor to say that I was not popular, but it is not revealed that the suit of the vicuna of millions of yen sold before in a certain celebrity department store as one of the real intention.
It is minimal quantity these days, but there seems to be the thing which people of the Indian who is a native receive permission in particular from the Peruvian government and harvest it, and does it to a product, but is not the thing which it easily gets under the present conditions not to be conducted a business of the public even if I do it in which.
There is already an animal having the hair which is thinner than one kind of cashmere. It is an animal called "the till".
It features the corner that is long thin in the group of the antelope called Tibet Antelope formally and seemingly is the figure such as the Thompson gazelle. The habitat lives in Kochi from Amayama, China and Tibetan plateau, 3,250 meters of the Ladak district of India to 5,500 meters.
When シャトーシュ made with baby fuzz of this till is said to be "woolen King" with woolen stuff, and even a big shawl goes through the ring, being said to be it is smooth and is said to be a ring shawl.
It seemed to have been valued high as a bringing product of the marriage of the upper classes such as maharajas for centuries in India, but I kill till to gather this hair and skin it and seem to gather it.
Therefore it decreases sharply to 75,000 of them by indiscriminate hunting in 1995 that there were 1 million of them in the early 20th century and is endangered. The business of the product is prohibited not to mention the capture of the animal by Washington Convention now, too.
News called "representatives of arrest, Tokyo dress shop appears in the Mainichi Shimbun of 2001 for the fur sale charge of the precious animal".
The suspect is the Washington Convention alleged violation that sold two pieces of high-quality shawls called シャトーシュ for 800,000 yen in a shop of Shibuya-ku Daikanyama approximately three months of the arrest ago.
The shawl called シャトーシュ seems to cost 1,500,000 yen from one piece of 400,000 yen in a black-market price, but has poaching because there is the person who it is said that it is rare and is valuable, and purchases it. Say after poor life, and a person poaching it is selected so that there is evil. However, it is only rare, and the person buying it thinks that it is narrow-minded possessiveness for the self-satisfaction that other people do not have without life being painful, besides, because there is a person buying it. I think that the morals of consumers are cases to be called into question.
Because a product is a textile, and still there does not seem to be the sweater, come off both the vicuna and the till from a knit story slightly, but do not know the feeling that I want it, and it is when is said to be the textile which is greater than cashmere; but not to participate at all because is to take part in it driving property of the earth which criminal, and is valuable to a crisis to purchase; attention.
By the way!
The till is very alert and agile and seems to be able to run at a maximum of 80 kilos per an hour.
It becomes one of the mascots of BEIJING OLYMPIC of 2010 in this agility and rare fewness.
The meeting meeting of the mascot which ran was this till.
The pattern, the so-called pattern, is indispensable for making clothes. Creating a three-dimensional pattern is a very important task in order to make comfortable clothes that fit a three-dimensional body with a flat cloth that does not expand or contract.
Sweaters are usually made by sewing five parts: front body, back body, right sleeve, left sleeve and collar, but the knit pattern for making these parts is called a "number book" and is a blueprint. It's like.
In the case of fabrics and cut-and-sew, it is necessary to "cut and sew the fabric" for each part according to the pattern, but in the case of knit, the parts are "knitted so that the shape is as written in the number of times".
I mentioned earlier that knits have molding and cut-and-sew, but all UTO cashmere sweaters are knitted by molding.
In this way, the body and sleeves of a sweater are knitted into the shape of parts, which is called "molded knit".
When knitting, the body starts knitting from the hem and the sleeves start from the cuffs. Emotionally, I tend to wonder if we knit from the upper shoulder to the hem, but the opposite is true.
For example, in the case of the predecessor of the inner type of UTO.
First, knit the hem with bag knitting, and then change to tenjiku knitting to knit the body. Since it is squeezed from the hem to the waist (it looks like it extends from the waist to the hem), we will create an angle of shape by reducing the number of stitches on both sides.
The method of reduction is also changed depending on the shape angle, such as reducing one eye every five round trips or reducing one eye every six round trips.
When you reach the thinnest waist, increase it to the armpits while doing the opposite of the reduction. When you reach your armpit, it's an armhole. The chestnuts of the armholes are knitted with the most delicate reduction.
The back body is knitted in the same way as the front body, but the feature is that it is knitted by reducing the shoulder drop. If you check your sweater, you will understand it well.
Sometimes it's a sweater like a turtleneck whose front is hard to see, which is the front? Some people ask me, but it is convenient to remember that it is better to have shoulder reduction.
The good thing about molded sweaters is that by making the shoulders down not on the shoulder line but above the shoulder blades, the sewn area does not hit when you put on your jacket or hang a bag on your shoulder, so there is no looseness. It is one.
In this way, each part of the molded knit is connected by a single thread, so the thread is not wasted.
Rather, it is an expensive thread that is nearly 10 times as expensive as ordinary thread, so the real intention is that even 1 gram cannot be wasted, but careful manufacturing using limited resources will be more popular as ecological wear in the future. I think it is the manufacturing method that can be obtained.
If you make a mistake in knitting, you can untie it and re-knit it, but if there is a mistake in the hem or cuffs at the beginning of knitting, you have no choice but to re-knit the part again.
Therefore, even if there is a request for correction, "I want to make it a little longer or shorter," I have no choice but to re-knit it again.
In addition, although it is a characteristic of cashmere or wool, there is an important process of sewn and sewn as a finishing touch.
When this squeezing is done, the thread becomes loose and soft and soft, but instead the strength against pulling decreases, so it is difficult to partially replace the finished product, which is also the reason why it is difficult to repair. But there is.
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